downtime
| DUSTORSION - local |
In the last couple of of days dusturbance was off line a couple of times, due to a nasty attack on the network server of our domain host. Our excuses.
downtime in Bremen
There are some interesting local development occurring here in Lowlands country. New social network type of site, specialised for freelancers www.frennel.nl has been launched. It's a cute idea that looks cute as well (if cute is criteria at all), one can make a profile, upload some photo's in portfolio, communicate with other desperate job seekers and create a network. Unfortunately, there are many, many more freelancers listed than there are jobs, but, let's give them time and warm support.
later thought: in a weird way, I'm more interested in frennel as a visual and democratic idea of building a network for freelancers, that freelancing as a fashion designer or illustrator. Gonna bite my tongue for saying this.
Dust
giallo/nero
| DUSTILATION-art-VIDEO - Video |
Back to the beginning, in hope to remember forgotten memory. Wearing a very special dress, ropes around the neck. Moving through the walls.
It has become clear by now that this mystery will remain unsolved.
Dust
venezia
| DUSTORSION - dustup |
While browsing through the back-end of dusturbance, I've noticed this unfinished post with Angolo's report from Venice Art Biennale 2011. This is a modest selection of picks that she made last June.
Finally, Angolo stalking Miuccia Prada and Antonio Marras, wearing dusturbance
Dust
Dear Steff (Part 3),
| DUSTORSION - bad dustitude |
Couldn't agree more with you about going back to basics, because putting the emphasis on the way the clothes fit and feel on our diverse human bodies would be a pleasant difference. It's not all about the looks and what we try to present to outer world through poised picks on fashion blogs, a lot of fashion related experience should be/is our own, intimate and even sensual relationship with fabric, color, form and meaning of our clothes. Today, industry took away that ritual and having our clothes made or fitted by a tailor is more luxurious than ever. We can only wait and see if new technology of 3D BodyScan can somehow connect those loose, opposite ends of fashion food chain, democratize that luxury and bring tailor to the masses.
I have another wish, to democratize the design process as well, hence the idea of modular system which deliberately includes wearer in creating its own set. Which half-way brings me to before mentioned app, because for dusturbance app would be the ideal tool to communicate modules since customer could mix&match the sets they own using the app.
The other part of my interest in creating a fashion app in general, is the same reason why dusturbance is a created as a blog, as the reaction to fashion blogging. So, to stay up-to-date with developments and make good use out of them, creating fashion app that promotes our view on fashion in charming, not pretentious, possibly humorous, definitely useful way, would be something worth trying, or at least thinking about.
Maybe the answer we are looking for in our quest is in using the ideas and resources that we have built so far to communicate our ideas further and better. When I look at kaKofonie Of si(gh)lenS and huge data base that you have created over time, with your very specific taste and sharp focus, it really makes me think that you and a couple of other people with similar affinities, have created a certain culture. When you look at your blog and what you have collected and created so far, doesn't it feel like all that work that you have put into it, can provide a good base for a next logical step, like fashion app might be, and communicate the ideas that you stand for even further?
In true spirit of dusturbance, I dare to dare you.
Angolo, Terry, Max & Elise, at Museumnacht 2012 in Rotterdam, posing for our favorite artist Hoogebrugge
Love, Dust
UPDATE: today in the news: Bodymetrics US debut, though only to help you find perfectly fitting jeans, for a start
man-generated
| DUSTORSION - dustup |
Let me introduce you to Wim Van Gelder, a friend that deserves multiple posts, considering that his work stretches from harsh experimental noise, over the tame photography and arty short movies, to growing own vegetables. He is a true and committed autodidact.
Most of his work gets published on Noiseblog 2.1, which he started back in 2005. Blog section covers many interesting topics connected to the experimental music and movie scene, including Wim's own act as Portable Noise Kremator. The blog is beautiful collection of oddities and I personally love to browse through it in search for weird animation movies and vintage electro scores. I had a chance to see some of his acts as Portable Noise Kremator and next to being generally very noisy, they sometimes had an extra dimension, like narrative. Lately, Wim is busy with building his own gear and posts divine images of his DIY sequencers, which next to being cute, naturally, produce noise (link leads to one of easier pieces, still, be brave).
I will recomend his YouTube channel as well and entertain you with Wim's own short movie, “La Posture du Cadavre”(featuring Cybele “Blue Shift” Collins) which was screened last November at CINECITY, The Brighton Film Festival.
Second web site, Anachronology, is dedicated to photography, both from creative and technical point of view, but it seems that lately Wim tends to post more of his photography related work on facebook .Somewhere among those portraits there are Dust and Angolo hiding, because recently we hosted a portrait session in dusturbace quarters as favor to Wim, but mostly for purely selfish purposes.
Dust
giallo, act 4
| DUSTILATION-art-VIDEO - Video |
For her, that wanders. Wearing silk like a pair of wings, or pulling the sleeve over her head like it's a bodybag.
She lost her face, but her soul is alive, even if offended.
Waiting for the night to turn everything into shadows.
foresta giallo
| DUSTILATION-art-VIDEO - Video |
re-blog-granted
| DUSTORSION - bad dustitude |
I'm quoting this article, originally from Stop It Right Now blog, but found on ± Tumblr. Following the train of thought.
"fashion vs apparel
i wish this would have been posted on some Tumblr so i could reblog it without any shame. excuse my plagiarism - these words belong to Stop It Right Now blog. thank you for saying this! the endless thank you!
“Anya Ziourova, a perfect example of the type of dressing I gravitate towards. Low-key comfortable casual pants and tops, but with killer outerwear and not too much other fluff. You can tell she’s not obsessed with being pretty, but wears outstanding pieces and let’s them be the focal point. Her jacket is the star, not her.
I had a lengthy discussion with some friends the other day about fashion, something I don’t normally like to talk about in real life. There are a lot of interesting observations one can make from the blog world, particularly in fashion blogging.
There are different types of fashion blogs - aspirational, lifestyle, narrative - and tens of thousands of readers that they cater to, yet they all seem to get jumbled together. In the end it becomes one big muddled corner of the internet, funneled into a popularity contest of who is the prettiest or coolest. Everyone assumes that if you happen to blog about fashion, you’re a “fashion blogger” and that you have the same common goals of success and notoriety. Not the case at all however. Who’s to say that we all want to “make it big” or what that even means?
When I use the word fashion it means something very specific to me. Maybe it’s my background in the industry or maybe just my own biased aesthetic, but it comes down to a level of respect for design and the actual art of creating beautiful clothes. The term fashion thrown around so loosely in the blogosphere nowadays, seems to have become what I actually consider just…apparel. For me the main distinction between the two is the focus being either on the design itself or the person wearing it. Or even further, the difference between art and shopping.
We now see the emergence of a defined blogger style that’s become the front runner in aspirational dressing. Where readers used to look to magazines and celebrities for inspiration and new trends, they now look to the internet and fashion bloggers. There’s no one right way of dressing, to each his own. But the observation I’m making here is that this blogger style seems less of an appreciation for the art of fashion, and more about piling on every trend all at once and looking as pretty as possible. Maximum buzz. That’s what people want to see right?
And there the line is drawn.
For me there are two great divides - credible fashion people and, because of my failing descriptive skills, let’s just call it the preoccupation with looking good - the most obvious difference in the two being the emphasis placed on beauty in oneself. To put it simply, fashion people don’t care about how the shirt will make their boobs looks, or whether a skirt will be tight enough to accentuate their butt just so. They look at the merit of the individual item and appreciate it for what it is on its own. In the other, there’s this concern with how pretty an outfit can make oneself appear with the right hair and makeup, the fashion element becoming secondary. Is the art being showcased or is the person being showcased? Take Anya for example, she doesn’t seem preoccupied with looking like a super model or being the hottest thing to walk through the Tuileries. Does that mean she takes zero pride in beauty or looking good? Of course not, it’s just probably not her first fashion concern. And the same could be said about people like Emmanuelle Alt or Julia Sarr-Jamois.
There’s not one mode that’s better than the other, it all comes down to personal preference. I’m not going to judge someone for wanting to look pretty. I mean, in some way don’t we all? However, as someone who respects the craft of fashion, I think it’s important to recognize that there is, in fact, a difference and to call it what it is.
There was a time when the It Girl was someone truly aspirational, when information moved slower, and people had time to discover themselves and develop tastes. While the internet is a miracle tool in uniting the world and getting news at lightning speeds, it also makes haste the development of who we are as people. Popular things, beautiful things, It things are fed to us as gospel and we eat it up and suddenly want to buy into it too. It’s so much harder to be an individual in this day and age when everything’s been done and redone and then redone better. But you know what’s truly individual? Simply being you, even if what you are is the same as the person next to you. The courage to not try to be something you’re not for fear of falling behind. Your It Girl - do you want to look like her or do you want to be her because she really is someone noteworthy?
Not only as a reader, but as a person, I think it’s prudent to question everything. Questioning someone isn’t insulting to the person (well, depending on your intentions), but rather a means by which you gain perspective on whether they’re really worthy of your admiration. Questions lead to answers and answers lead to clearer pictures. Why wouldn't you question me, a stranger on the internet, and wonder why my life seems so great? (Does it?) Why I have an endless closet? (I don’t.) Why would you accept that everything on your screen is the god’s honest truth? The easiest way to know yourself is to be aware of what’s around you and to pick up on the subtle distinctions between things that others may not see, to know how you are aligned with those things.
There is a lot of identity in fashion. Do you know who you are? “ "
Dear Steff, on second thought
| DUSTORSION - bad dustitude |
Dear Steff of kaKofonie Of si(gh)lenS ,
I think we all give too much attention to Fashion Weeks in general and that might be something to discuss on different occasion.
If you are a young designer that wants to build a label, having a fashion is not the main goal, as many people think. The collections we or me alone, before i turned to Dust, were showing, never developed further than samples, like you say. Having your stuff shot for editorials is also not a sign of success because considering the number of them shot daily, stylist are always on look out for something fresh. Maybe I want to say that getting publicity is much less difficult than organising production of collection itself. Ah, production...
The problem is that I'm not a business a woman, even with all my creativity put in it, the results would be lousy and for that reason I can't only blame "them", but mostly me.One thing is sure, dusturbance is not going to do fashion shows any more if it is not able to produce the collection. Even then, I doubt that archaic form of defile would be appropriate form of presentation.
This is Brirdeater's dog, very happy, enthusiastic one. Somehow in this pick, it looks slow,heavy and threatening. That's how I imagine fashion industry collapsing under own weight of overproduction. And I'm sure that you will agree, those indie labels, sustainable outcasts, will survive because they are in the way outside of the system already, so the fall of it won't hurt them.
On second thought, when we complain about not exciting Fashion Weeks and we know how difficult it is to make the collection , from samples to products that hang on the rack ready for sale, in a way, we are spoiled by choices.
It's past bedtime and I'm going to bed with a thought of world in which there are no 5 euro t-shirts.
Love, Dust
follow the open conversation between kaKofonie Of si(gh)lenS and dusturbance,
join in below
Dear Steff
| DUSTORSION - bad dustitude |
Dear Steff of kaKofonie Of si(gh)lenS ,
Now, when dusturbance as we wanted it to be, proved to be dysfunctional, what is there for us to do?
I have some ideas and i would like to invite you to join me on the quest. Let's break the rules and start the open conversation. What can come out of it? A feature, an article, a dress, an image, a casual chit-chat, an app!?
I'll start first and admit that sometimes i find it difficult to design because my own closet is so full. I can't get myself to follow fashion weeks with same interest as before, I feel like there's so much of ..... clothes. Everything and nothing, because besides overwhelming number of collections, development of fashion doesn't seem to go faster, only consumption. Some of indie designer that are often featured on your blog manage to offer both, radical aesthetic and perfectly fitting pair of odd black trousers. Something that is inspirational and something that flatters a bit of belly and healthy amount of hips, but under the sea of fashion weeks coverage, they remain obscure and that is maybe the way it should be.
Fashion and me at moment don't get along and there seem to be conflict of interests.
The question is : what is your favorite color?.....he-he, if only it could be that easy!
Sigh...
Love, Dust
UPDATE: The best way to follow this dialog is to check both, dusturbance and kaKofonie Of si(gh)lenS, as Steff will post her side on her blog. Like she has already suggested, you are welcome to join in the conversation via comment section,e-mail or maybe even article on your own blog.
Click here for follow up.
the gif(t) of giallo
| DUSTILATION-art-VIDEO - Video |
Boys from ▲ı▼ı▲ proposed us to collaborate on their video. We said yes.
The guidelines were strict and clear, we need to create a raw footage for the video, since chores of editing will be their part of the job. They suggested that for inspiration we look into Italian giallo movies, and use dusturbance creations for the purpose.
Before the footage goes through AMA filter, here are some snippets, just for the taste of it.
Gifs below are created the usual way, using my amateur skills. i will understand if you look away, it's scary.
Dust
honesty
| DUSTORSION - bad dustitude |
Once upon a time dusturbance was an ambitious fashion project. We had a plan, and with it we wanted to comment, and even correct, things that we thought were wrong with the existing fashion system. Next to making smashing clothes, we really wanted to be transparent about everything, from creative process to prices of final products. "Tag of Honesty" , written in 2009, still remains the most visited post on this site and sign that we were heading good direction and that people who visited this space had genuine interest and understanding for what we were tried to say, change and achieve.
Honesty is forgotten value in profit-orientated society. On the other hand, there is no easier thing than being honest, so much more easier than inventing stories. From the consumer perspective, wouldn't it be much more pleasurable buying expensive designer item and actually knowing what is the earning of house itself, what are the costs of production, profit of retailer, for example? As for designers, it would be very simple to show all figures and once and for all, prove that we actually don't earn that much, as people tend to suspect. Really, there is absolutely nothing to hide.
Recently, some other honest people, took this initiative into reality. Namely, Bruno Pieters, Belgian designer started with www.honestby.com and the idea is exactly the same. It is very thoroughly done, up until the price of care labels. Beautiful clothes too. In all my honesty, I can only wish that he read about the idea here, but it's very unlikely so. It also means that luckily for twisted world of fashion, there are more honest people out there.
Go, and visit the Honest by web-shop, take a good look, maybe buy something. I hope that you will experience the change. Come back to tell me all about it.
Dust
giavollo
| DUSTILATION-art-VIDEO - Video |
Nowhere close to perfection, but with all the respect to anonymous victim. Wearing torn dress upside down, letting in dance with twisted elegance and scream like it's a song, like there was never a better moment to die.
It will dawn, once again. The sweat will cool down. The music will stop. Hold your breath, till tonight.
